Climb the Island Peak [6,189M]

Island Peak climb is the second most sought climbing peak after Mighty Everest in the Everest region.

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Quick Facts

  • calendar_clock Duration: 22 Days
  • signal_cellular_alt Difficulty level: ★★★ info
  • groups Group Size: 2 to 8
  • partly_cloudy_day Best Season: Spring
  • hiking Hike per Day: 5 - 7 Hours
  • hotel Accomodation: Hotel + Lodge + Tent
  • travel_explore Country: Nepal
  • landscape_2 Peak Name: Island Peak
  • landscape Mountain Range: Khumbu Himal
  • route Climbing Route: Normal Route
  • altitude Max Altitude: 6,189M (20,305ft)
Overview

Expedition Overview

Nicknamed "Island Peak" for its resemblance to an island amidst a sea of ice, Imja Tse is the second most popular climb in the Everest region, following the mighty Everest itself. Nestled atop the Chukung glacier between Lhotse and Ama Dablam, this peak appears to jut out like a wing from Lhotse Shar's southern flank. Originally attempted in 1953 as training for Everest expeditions, Island Peak remains a popular choice for climbers honing their skills before tackling bigger mountains. While the climb doesn't require technical expertise, it does demand physical strength (graded Alpine PD+). Expert guides will provide training at Island Peak Base Camp before the ascent. This mix of challenge and accessibility makes Island Peak a desirable climb for both beginners and experienced climbers. Be prepared for a 250-meter fixed rope climb to the summit, a steep 45-degree headwall, and an exposed ridge walk. The climbing route traverses glacial moraines and winds its way through Sagarmatha National Park and Sherpa villages, offering a glimpse into their unique culture, traditions, and religion. Spring and autumn are the ideal seasons to tackle Island Peak.
Map

Itinerary

Upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, complete your visa formalities and collect your luggage. Head towards the arrival hall exit, where your Himali Exped trip leader will be waiting with a sign for "Himali Exped." They'll then escort you to your hotel in Kathmandu.
After a restful first night in Kathmandu, we'll meet in the morning for a gear check. This session ensures you have everything needed for the trek. During the evening, your dedicated trek and climb leader will provide a comprehensive briefing on the program for the following day.

If you haven't yet acquired all your trekking equipment, don't worry! This evening also presents an opportunity to rent or purchase any missing essentials. We'll ensure you're fully prepared to embark on this exciting adventure.
An early morning transfer takes us to Tribhuvan Airport's domestic terminal for our exciting 30-minute flight to Lukla, gateway to the Everest Khumbu region. Prepare to be awestruck by panoramic views of snow-capped peaks as we soar through the skies.

Upon landing in Lukla, we'll meet our fellow crew members and enjoy a hearty breakfast at a local lodge. While our porters handle the luggage, we'll embark on our trek towards Island Peak.

Our journey begins on a downhill stone path, gradually transitioning into a flatter trail with a spiritual ambiance. Mani stones (stones inscribed with prayers) line the route, and captivating views of Lukla village unfold before us.

Our destination for the day is Phakding, a charming village nestled amidst breathtaking scenery. After refreshments, you'll have the opportunity to explore the nearby village and, if time allows, visit a local monastery. We'll then return to the lodge for dinner and a briefing about tomorrow's trek.
Fueled by breakfast, we embark on our journey today, following the Dudh Koshi River. The trail winds through a scenic pine forest, offering glimpses of charming settlements like Zapute, Toktok, Benkar, and Chumoa. Prepare for a thrilling adventure as we traverse several suspension bridges along the way.

Reaching Monjo, the gateway to Sagarmatha National Park, we descend sharply towards the river, crossing another bridge before embarking on the climb towards the high Hillary Bridge at the foot of the hill. Once across this bridge, a rewarding ascent leads us to Namche Bazaar, a bustling hub nestled amidst breathtaking scenery.

Weather permitting, this leg of the trek might grant you your first glimpse of majestic peaks like Thamserku, Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and Kusum Kanguru. The awe-inspiring views are sure to leave a lasting impression.
Namche Bazaar, nestled amidst breathtaking mountains, serves as the gateway to the high Himalayas and the vibrant capital of Sherpa Land. This bustling hub offers a designated rest day for acclimatization, allowing your body to adjust to the higher altitude. During this time, you can delve into the rich cultural tapestry of the region.

Embark on a short hike to the traditional village of Thame, immersing yourself in the rich heritage of the Sherpa people. Optional visits to nearby villages like Khumjung, Khunde, or Khongde can further enrich your cultural experience. These villages offer a glimpse into the traditional way of life in the Khumbu region, where age-old customs and practices continue to thrive.

Namche Bazaar's lively marketplace beckons with unique souvenirs and local crafts, perfect for those seeking a memento of their Himalayan adventure. The National Park Headquarters, museum, and monasteries provide historical and cultural insights, allowing you to learn more about the Sagarmatha National Park and the Sherpa people who call it home.

This delightful town boasts cafes, restaurants, bakeries, shops, a post office, a hospital, and even internet access. Enjoy a delicious meal, explore the shops, or simply relax in a cozy cafe – a welcome respite before your exciting ascent of Island Peak. With internet access available, you can easily connect with loved ones back home to share stories of your incredible journey thus far.
Departing Namche Bazaar, the trail follows the glacial Dudh Koshi River, offering breathtaking panoramas of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Thamserku, and Ama Dablam. Immerse yourself in a vibrant tapestry of nature as the path winds through a colorful rhododendron forest teeming with wildlife like musk deer and various birds. At Sanasa, the junction point, one path leads towards Gokyo Valley while ours takes us onwards.

A challenging yet rewarding climb takes us to Tengboche Monastery, the largest Gompa (monastery) in the Khumbu region. The effort is well worth it, as you'll be blessed with close-up views of the surrounding mountains. After visiting the monastery, we'll continue our trek through a serene forest of birch and rhododendron, reaching our overnight destination in Debuche.
Leaving Debuche after breakfast, we descend towards the Imja River, a refreshing change of scenery. Our path then takes us uphill through a lush forest, eventually reaching Pangboche (3,860 meters). This charming village boasts the Pangboche Monastery, adorned with traditional chortens (stupas) and mani walls (walls inscribed with prayers). The trail offers glimpses of the Imja Valley, a captivating side adventure for future exploration.

After Pangboche, we take on a steeper climb towards Pheriche. Continuing our journey, we cross the Lobuche River before tackling the day's final ascent to Dingboche. This picturesque village is a welcome sight, nestled amidst dramatic landscapes. Agriculture is the lifeblood of Dingboche, evident in the stonewalled fields where buckwheat, potatoes, and barley are cultivated by the resilient locals.
Our arrival in Dingboche marks another designated rest day for acclimatization. This charming summer settlement for the local people offers stunning scenery. Hike to the ridge north of the village and be rewarded with breathtaking panoramas of Ama Dablam, Lhotse, and an array of majestic peaks, both big and small. The Imja River snakes its way directly east of Dingboche, adding to the captivating landscape.

For a touch of quirky fun, Dingboche boasts one of the world's highest billiard parlors! And if you need to stay connected, an internet cafe is also available. Use this time to relax, recharge, and conserve your energy for the exciting climb ahead on the forthcoming days.
Departing Dingboche, we retrace our steps for a short while before embarking on a moderate climb towards Dugla. Passing by the teahouses in Dugla, we embark on a more challenging section. Our path traverses the Khumbu Glacier's moraine, a landscape marked by both beauty and risk. Here, you'll encounter a series of stone memorials built to honor Sherpas who perished on Everest expeditions, serving as a poignant reminder of the mountain's dangers.

Beyond the moraine, the trail descends along the valley's western side, leading us to Lobuche. As you settle into Lobuche for the night, keep your eyes peeled for the captivating sight of the sunset painting Nuptse in a blaze of color – a truly unforgettable experience.
An early rise is essential today as we embark on the challenging trek to Everest Base Camp. The trail weaves its way through the Khumbu Glacier, navigating past towering ice pinnacles and formidable crevasses. This journey, requiring several hours, demands focus and perseverance.

After a well-deserved lunch break, we take the trail towards Everest Base Camp, passing the once vast Gorak Shep Lake. Reaching this legendary location, a profound sense of respect washes over you as you witness the brightly colored tents of mountaineers standing out against the stark gray landscape, especially vibrant during spring. Everest Base Camp is a testament to the grit and determination of those who attempt to conquer the world's highest peak.

Nuptse, Khumbuste, and Pumori, majestic giants in their own right, stand sentinel around the base camp. On our return journey, we can take a higher route for a breathtaking panorama of the Khumbu Icefall and the climbers' route towards the South Col. With a sense of accomplishment, we return to Gorak Shep for a restful night's sleep.
Conquer the thin air and witness a spectacle that will etch itself into your memory forever - sunrise at Kalapatthar. An early start at dawn is crucial to capture this magical moment. Prepare for chilly temperatures (around -10°C to -14°C), darkness, and potentially strong winds that are common at this altitude. But the reward is more than worth the effort.

As you ascend, familiar peaks like Lingtren, Khumbutse, and Changtse begin to reveal themselves to the east. Everest, the crown jewel, gradually emerges between the west shoulder crest and Nuptse. Several breathtaking viewpoints along the climb offer perfect opportunities to capture photos and catch your breath.

After a challenging yet exhilarating ascent, you'll reach Kalapatthar. A short scramble up a rocky outcrop marked by cairns (piles of stones) and prayer flags takes you to the very top. Here, perched atop this natural amphitheater, prepare to be awestruck.

Panoramic Himalayan vistas unfold before you, with one mighty massif after another demanding your attention. Drink in the breathtaking scenery, capture the moment with countless photos, and let the grandeur of the Himalayas sink in.

Once you've had your fill of this unforgettable experience, begin your gradual descent back to Dingboche. This trek may be downhill, but the memories you've created will stay with you forever.
Our journey today takes us from Dingboche to Chukung, a leisurely 2-hour walk at a slow pace. This relaxed trek allows you to soak in the surrounding scenery as we make our way to our destination.

Upon reaching Chukung, you'll enjoy a well-deserved lunch. The rest of the afternoon is yours to unwind, prepare for your Island Peak climb, and ensure all your gear is properly organized for the exciting adventure ahead.
Today's trek takes us south towards the heart of the valley. Prepare to negotiate some rough terrain, crossing streams and navigating boulder fields alongside glaciated rivers. Our path will traverse the Imja and Lhotse glacier moraines, a testament to the power of these majestic giants.

Finally, we'll arrive at the Island Peak Base Camp, nestled in a dramatic valley. Here, you'll be greeted by the awe-inspiring sight of Island Peak's southwestern face, a formidable yet captivating sight that promises an unforgettable challenge. Tonight, rest up in the base camp, ready to embark on your Island Peak climb.
This morning is dedicated to honing your climbing skills for the upcoming summit push. Your expert guides will conduct a comprehensive climbing course on a nearby hill. The session will cover essential techniques like ascending fixed ropes using a jummar, descending fixed ropes using an ATC guide or a figure-eight descender, and the proper use of your safety cord. You'll also receive crucial terrain instructions to ensure a safe and efficient climb.

The afternoon offers valuable free time. Use this opportunity to relax, recharge, and meticulously organize your gear for tomorrow's summit attempt. Get a good night's sleep – you'll need all your energy for the exhilarating challenge that awaits!
Summit day arrives! An early wake-up call is essential as strong winds typically pick up in the afternoons. Fuel your body for the climb with a hearty breakfast and then set off with your experienced guides.

The initial part of the ascent is a moderate climb, but the terrain soon transforms, transitioning from sandy areas to meadows and boulders. Following a tapered path, you'll navigate a steep rock channel before emerging into a gully. Prepare for challenges presented by seracs (ice formations) and crevasses as you traverse the ridgeline.

Ropes will be your lifeline as you tackle the challenging snout of the summit glacier. Steep snow slopes, inclined at a 40-degree angle, demand focus and perseverance. But the reward awaits!

As you conquer the summit, a breathtaking panorama unfolds before you. Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, Baruntse, and Ama Dablam stand tall, their majestic forms forever etched in your memory. Capture this incredible moment with photos and savor the sense of accomplishment that washes over you.

The descent will be long, but the satisfaction of reaching the summit will spur you on. Back at Island Peak Base Camp, celebrate your success with your fellow climbers and guides. A night of well-deserved rest awaits before your return journey.
An extra day scheduled for any delays. Climbing a 6000m peak involves multiple factors such as weather and health condition, etc which can cause a delay or interruption to our itinerary. In such a case, our schedule might get affected. This contingency day will help us to make sure that our schedule will go on smoothly without interruption.
Bidding farewell to Island Peak Base Camp, we embark on a more relaxed descent, following an easier trail that takes us back towards lower altitudes. Retracing our steps through the wide Khumbu River valley, we pass by the charming and tiny Sherpa settlements of Orsho and Shomare.

Our journey culminates in Pangboche, a village renowned for housing the oldest monastery in the entire Khumbu region. From here, savor the breathtaking views of Everest, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, the Kangtega and Kongde ridges, and the Imja Tse River - a fitting finale to your Island Peak adventure.
Leaving Pangboche early in the morning, we will follow the return trail along Imja River that takes us through the forest of birch and spruce to Tengboche village. After brief stop in Tengboche, we will follow the trail through forest of blooming rhododendron to the bridge. We will cross the bridge over Dudh Koshi River and move through Dudh Koshi gorge and pine forest to Sansa village. The region is rich in Himalayan wildlife like mountain goats, Thars and local birds. We will pass through the chorten to the army camp at Namche Bazaar.
Our final trekking day arrives. Following the Dudh Kosi River downstream, the descent is a welcome change after the steeper climb from Namche Bazaar. Enjoy a leisurely stroll along the river, taking in the scenery for one last time. A delicious lunch break will fuel us for the final climb up to Lukla airstrip.

Upon reaching Lukla, a wave of accomplishment washes over you. This is your last day amidst these majestic mountains. Take some time to relax under the warm sun and reflect on the incredible experiences you've had. The challenges you've overcome, the breathtaking beauty you've witnessed, and the personal growth you've experienced – these are the treasures you'll carry with you forever.

Tonight, celebrate your successful trek and climb with the Sherpa guides and porters who have become your companions on this journey. These individuals have shared their knowledge, expertise, and camaraderie, making your adventure truly unforgettable. Raise a toast to new friendships forged and memories made. As you drift off to sleep, savor the contentment of a phenomenal trip coming to a delightful close.
An early morning flight whisks you away from Lukla, offering breathtaking aerial views of the Himalayas one last time. Upon landing in Kathmandu, a private vehicle awaits to comfortably transfer you back to your hotel.

This is your time to unwind and pamper yourself. Sooth your tired muscles after the challenging yet rewarding climb, perhaps with a relaxing massage. Reflect on the incredible journey you've just completed, the memories etched forever in your mind.

Kathmandu offers a kaleidoscope of experiences for you to explore in the coming days - vibrant markets, ancient temples, and delicious local cuisine. But for now, savor the quiet satisfaction of a successful adventure and drift off to a well-deserved rest.
Your free day in Kathmandu allows you to relax after the trek or explore the city's markets and temples. In the evening, a farewell dinner awaits, celebrating your successful climb with a delicious meal and a traditional dance performance. If you wish to extend your stay and explore further, just let us know!
As your incredible Himalayan adventure draws to a close, it's time to return home. We at Himali Exped thank you for joining us and cherish the memories we've made together. We'll ensure a smooth departure - you'll be assisted with last-minute preparations and transferred to Tribhuvan International Airport well in advance of your flight. Farewell, and safe travels! We hope to see you again on another exciting adventure soon.
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Cost Includes

  • All meals (B,L,D) on trek & climb including hot water and tea/coffee.
  • Twin sharing accommodation at teahouse/lodges during the trek
  • Twin sharing accommodation at tents at Island peak base camp
  • Twin sharing accommodation at Kathmandu guest house or similar category for 4 nights with breakfast
  • All required permits for trek and climb
  • Climbing guides at (1:3 guide to client ratio) for Island peak
  • Domestic/Internal airfare with airport taxes and ground transfers
  • Porterage of all equipments
  • Kathmandu airport transfers and escorts
  • Comprehensive first aid kit with supplementary oxygen system
  • Duffel bag, Sleeping bag with liner and Down Jacket (Sleeping bag and down jacket must be returned after completion of trek)
  • Group climbing gears and use of personal climbing gears on request
  • Staff summit bonus, insurances and allowances
  • Island Peak summit certificate issued by Nepal Mountaineering Association
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Cost Excludes

  • International airfare, Visa and travel insurance
  • Meals at Kathmandu
  • Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu or on climb for any reason (Early arrival or delay, Early arrival from trek due to any reason)
  • Personal expenses – Drinks & Souvenirs
  • Gratuities for staff
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